Save Money and Energy By Insulating Your Home’s Heating Ducts

Interior - February 4, 2007

Click photo to enlarge
The “carpenter” who previously owned my home didn’t like to finish projects - like this half-insulated heat duct.

It’s only gotten cold here on the East Coast in the past two weeks so I really wasn’t thinking about how efficient my forced air heating system was until I really had depend on the heat every day and night. I knew that the previous owner (supposedly a carpenter by trade) had begun to insulate the ducts but for some reason never finished. I found more than one line of duct work in my unfinished basement that was only half-insulated, leaving bare 4″ aluminum duct the rest of the way.

I had never really worked with insulation much before this project, so I went out a bought a small roll of traditional fiberglass insulation. I figured it would be relatively easy, just shoving the insulation up there and wrapping it around the bare ducts, putting up small pieces of tape as I go and then taping the whole thing once it was in place.

That was the plan. Things didn’t go well.

The 12 inch wide fiberglass insulation was just a half inch too short to bend around my 4 inch ducts, so I tried wrapping them around like a ribbon on a candycane but there isn’t much room between my ducts and basement ceiling. While I was struggling on a step ladder with 10 feet of insulation I found myself going blind every 30 seconds as my goggles fogged up due to the face mask I was wearing. I wear glasses so everything fit poorly and after about 20 minutes of struggling with a cloud of fiberglass in the air and about 4 inches of ducts covered I just gave up and figured there had to be a better way.

About a week later I found the better way: foil covered insulation! I found it at my local hardware mega-store. Foil insulation is a little more expensive per package, but I figured it to cost about the same as regular fiberglass insulation when I sat down and figured out the price per square foot.

All insulation (and any building material) has an “R-Value” which measures the “thermal resistance” or amount of heat/energy which can flow through it. The higher the R-Value, the better the insulation. The fiberglass insulation with a foil backing that I started using had an R-value of 3 and the foil covered insulation I picked up had the same when wrapped around ducts, so that was all I needed!


Click photo to enlarge

Foil insulation beats traditional fiberglass insulation in ease of installation.

The foil insulation that I picked up looks just like bubble-wrap made from aluminum foil. Not surprisingly, when I cut a sheet of it off the roll that about all it really is: bubble-wrap with foil on both sides. It’s much thinner and less bulky than fiberglass insulation and its about a hundred times easier to wrap around my ducts.

So that’s what I did: I’d cut it a strip of foil insulation that was about 13.5 inches wide and then take it down the length of my ducts and just tape it on both sides, then move towards the center and place a few more pieces of foil tape to keep it in place. Then I’d take a long strip of foil tape down the bottom of the wrapped duct, covering the edge of the insulation.

Because I couldn’t see the top of the ducts, I ran my hands over them slowly, looking for any cuts or holes. Sure enough, I actually found a hole that I image was caused by a floor nail that was driven in too far. Hot air was shooting out of it until I took a piece of foil tape and wrapped it around the duct, sealing it up again.

About a day after insulating the ducts I went back down to the basement and it definitely felt a little cooler down there, telling me that less heat was escaping into my basement and more heat was being pumped into the living area of my home.

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Save Money and Energy By Insulating Your Home’s Heating Ducts

2 Comments »

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  2. Pingback by Home Improvements Depot- » How To Care For and Maintain Your Central Air Conditioner

    [...] Keep It Checked: Okay, I’m pushing the heading style, but you’ll want to check a couple different things on your AC about once a month. You’ll want to check your air filter and replace it a little more than usual. Some sites recommend replacing it once a month, but I think that might be a little over zealous. My filters cost me nearly $20 a piece and the manufacturer suggests changing them every six months. I usually end up changing them three or four times a year as I see a need. Besides the filter, you’ll also want to look around for any leaks in the hoses or air ducts. You’d be shocked at how often you’ll find loose ducts with small gaps and tiny air leaks around older duct work. You might also consider insulating your home’s air ducts which will not only help with heating, but also on cooling. [...]

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