How To Replace a Shower Diverter Valve
I have a combination bathtub and shower and over the past three months or so I noticed that whenever I turned the knob to “shower” I still had a fair amount of water coming out of the tub faucet. Basically, water was leaking from the shower valve and coming out my tub faucet.
My dated and barely working shower knob.
The water coming from out of the tub faucet was clearly taking away from the water pressure that was getting to the shower hose and nozzle. This means that whenever the shower was being run in my house we’d have to crank the water all the way up just to get enough water pressure out to take a decent shower. And while showering water was gushing out of the bath tub faucet below, immediately going down the drain and becoming a huge waste of water. I also found that if I had the water pressure turned on just right I’d manage to get the pipes banging and screeching in my walls.
In the past I’ve been a little shy about working on plumbing. I’m the guy who ended up calling a plumber to remove a shower knob and replace a little rubber washer. This time I decided to take what I had learned from that experience and apply it, hopefully saving myself some money. As an aside, you should know that replacing a shower diverter is pretty similar to replacing a shower valve, so if you can do one, you can most likely do the other.
I did a little research and found that plumbing valve that switches the water from the bathtub to the shower sprayer was called a shower “diverter” and it is essentially just a mechanical valve for closing off one line of pipe to the tub faucet and switching it all to the shower. In my older bathroom the shower diverter was a completely separate knob, though in many cases they can be built onto the hot and cold temperature water selector. Generally, the steps for replacing a shower diverter like mine are fairly simple:
I used a hammer to strategically knock off the stuck shower knob.
- Remove shower diverter knob.
- Take out old shower diverter.
- Replace it with a new shower diverter.
- Replace the diverter knob.
My steps were generally the same, but I hit a few challenges along the way. You can click on the photos to see larger pictures of how I replaced my shower diverter valve.
Removing the Shower Diverter Knob: This was supposed to be the easy part, but it ended up being a major hassle. I took out the screw in the knob and tried pulling the shower diverter knob off, but got nowhere awfully fast. I know that I should have used a gear puller, but I still didn’t have one. From my previous experiences with removing shower knobs I knew they could be pretty hard to remove, so I go a hammer and hooked it around the backside of the knob. I would simply pull the hammer towards me with a good bang, turn the knob a little bit and do it again, essentially “hammering” the knob off the stem from behind it. I’ve also heard of people prying off shower knobs with a hammer by using a block of wood against the tile of a shower, but I didn’t want to risk breaking the tiles, even with the wood serving as a safety. After a few minutes of turning the shower knob and banging it out I noticed it start to wiggle and then it popped right off. Sure enough, the knob had simply corroded itself into the shaft. Once the knob was off I used a wrench to twist off the metal sleeve tube (it was threaded on the end) and the cut the caulk around the metal plate at the shower tiled wall and removed that, all giving me a clear shot at the shower diverter.
The old shower diverter just screws out (with the initial help of a wrench).
Removing the Old Shower Diverter: All shower diverters are a little different, so I took a few minutes just looking it over, trying to get a sense of how it worked. Essentially I had unscrew two things: there was a front bolt which simply had threads on it and a bolt farther back that actually held the shower diverter valve in the entire diverter unit. I used a wrench again and was able to unscrew it quite easily, removing the whole valve assembly.
One look at the assembly told me why it wasn’t working. The rubber washers of the diverter valve were shot. They were stretched and worn and when I turned the shaft to open or close the valve they somtimes stuck and didn’t close back together very well. I didn’t see any easy way to replace the rubber washers alone, so I decided to replace the whole assembly.
The old and new shower diverter valves.
Installing the New Shower Diverter: This was my next challenge. I drove across town to a Lowe’s hardware store to see if they had an exact replacement for my old shower diverter. I had no idea what the brand and model of my shower water assembly was (or even how old it was) so I took my old shower diverter valve with me for comparison. If Lowe’s didn’t have it I was planning on hitting a few other hardware stores and then scouting out some plumbing supply stores. I was in luck, however, and after about 10 minutes of searching I found what seemed to be a pretty good match for what I had in my hand. This was actually a good exercise because by finding the exact match I was able to learn that my shower diverter, and presumably the rest of my shower assembly, is made by a company called Gerber. If I need to repair any shower plumbing or valves or knobs in the future I can save some time by looking at the Gerber parts first.
The new shower diverter valve is installed!
The new assembly worked pretty much like the old assembly. I got home, removed the packaging and screwed it into the spot where my other diverter used to reside. It went in smoothly, which I took to be a good sign. It did come packaged with one extra nut, but it wasn’t attached and I had no idea what to do with it. I presume it was an option piece that helped some shower knobs work with this particular shower diverter.
Replacing the Shower Diverter Knob: Putting the knob back on wasn’t a big deal. I just put the diverter valve where the new one was and screwed it in, using a wrench to tighten the valve. I was careful not to over tighten it. Once it was on I had to fiddle around a little bit to make sure that the knob pointed down for the bath faucet and up (or up and to the left in my case) to operate the shower. Once the knob was in position I screwed in the end screw and was pretty much done. Before going any further I gave it a quick test run and it appeared to work perfectly! When I turned the shower on there wasn’t a single drop of water coming out of the bathtub faucet!
I then cleaned the old caulk off the tile around the knob plate and put the tube and metal plate back against the tile and put new caulk around it. This is important because that plate and caulk keep water from dripping down onto the shower diverter stem and then running back behind the walls of my shower.
The entire job took about an hour or so, without including the time it took me to get to the hardware store and back. The only tools I really used were a hammer, a screwdriver, an adjustable wrench and my finger to spread the caulk.
The shower diverter valve only cost me about $16, which makes this one of the cheapest and easiest plumbing repairs I’ve ever done! And by stopping the wasteful water that was pouring out of my tub faucet every time I take a shower I should also have a lower water bill next quarter, which means that replacing this simple shower diverter may end up paying for itself in lower water usage in just a few months!
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[...] I used what I learned from this experience to replace the shower diverter valve in my tub. The total cost of that repair was about $16 for parts and $0 for [...]
Comment by Scott Matthews
AWESOME!!! I spent $8 bucks and some change for a new diverter valve (and $22 bucks for the stupid plumbers sockets). Your instructions and photos were dead on perfect for a non-plumber such as I am. The shower works like a charm and I don’t have to listen to my daughters complain anymore.
Comment by P.D.
Well, this is all great!
That is, if you can GET that far!!!!
I can’t budge the screws loose that hold the handles on.
Comment by Andy Peranelli
Yours was about the tenth site I looked at to find an answer to my diverter problem, and the first to really explain what to do. Thanks for posting it.
Andy
Comment by Tom
Yeah, if the screws are solidified then you might have a rough time getting those shower knobs off. Have you tried some Liquid Wrench or other sort of screw/corrosion loosener? Sometimes those chemicals can really do the trick. Another option is to get in there with a Dremel and cut the screw heads off, but then you’ll be stuck replacing a lot more than just the shower diverter. Good luck and let me know if you come up with a solution!
Comment by Young DIY-er
Just what i needed, ive been looking for instructions [with pictures] to fix the same problem about my shower. Thanks for posting this, i havent done it yet, but will be later. Thanks alot!
Comment by L. Frey
Hoping this works! It’s the only site I could find with concise instructions. Thanks!
Comment by Gilberto
“It did come packaged with one extra nut, but it wasn’t attached and I had no idea what to do with it. I presume it was an option piece that helped some shower knobs work with this particular shower diverter.”
The “nut” you mention here is actually the seat that goes behind the diverter. Sometimes it causes leak and you have to replace it as well. To remove you need an square tip “L” shaped tool that fits in the middle of the seat.
Great posting.
Comment by Tom
Gilberto,
Ohhh… Cool, thanks! So where exactly would it attach? For the life of me I couldn’t find a place for it to go other than on the knob end (the long stick part) of the diverter. I always get a little nervous when I have left over parts, especially after a DIY plumbing project like this. Thanks!
Comment by L. Frey
Ok – I easliy got the knob off and am looking at a diverter valve that is so strongly in place I cannot get it out. This is one that is seated on the bath ledge, not on the wall of the shower. Would that be any different? Do I need to remove the tub access panel?
Comment by Tdu1vme
Excellent article. I have the same exact Gerber shower fixtures. Here’s a tip to remove stuck shower handles without using a handle puller. First, understand that the handles are stuck, most often not because of corrosion and/or rust, but because of hardened soap that has accumulated over the years. With that understanding, the solution becomes simple. Use a standard hand held 1875 watts hair dryer, e.g., Conair, available at most pharmacy stores (such as CVS or Rite Aide), discount stores, department stores, etc. for as little as $9.99 on sale if you or your wife/significant other don’t already have one, to heat up the faucet handle. Heat it on high for about 2 to 3 minutes until the handle is too hot to grasp. That softens the hardened soap that has been locking the handle in place. Then simply use a rag, wash cloth, or folded over paper towel like you would a pot holder to grasp the handle and remove it. This will also work for the handle screw if it is stuck or frozen.
Comment by Tom
Tdu1vme: Ha! That’s a great idea! I’ll definitely have to try that the next time I’m trying to get a shower or sink handle unstuck! I’m almost tempted to go try it now just for fun :-)
Comment by Lee
Anyone know if you can replace a stem with one of a different brand? The threads that hold the handle are trashed, but I don’t like the Gerber handles; the threads get stripped in them. I’m not even sure if the stem is trashed or just the handle. I’ve replaced one handle there already, but it might all be due to a different problem causing too much friction???
Comment by NEIL NYSTROM
CAN YOU ATTACH A HAND-HELD SHOWER TO A BATHTUB DIVERTER VALVE?
FOR EXAMPLE, KOHLER # K-303-K.
ANY SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS IF I DO THIS?
THANKS.
NEIL
Comment by Tina
Excellent. Just what I needed. Do I need to shut the water off to the house first?
Comment by Tom
Tina,
Technically, you don’t even have to turn off the water because the diverter just controls where the water goes (shower or tub faucet). The hot and cold faucet handles control if the water is on or off.
However, you might want to play it safe and be selective about closing a water supply valve or two. You don’t have to turn off the water for your whole house, but you should probably shut off the water (cold and hot) going to your shower. There should be some valves in an access panel or in your basement (if you have one) that go to your shower.
Good luck!
Comment by Susan Levy
Your post encouraged me to remove the diverter valve from my shower and it came out so easily I thought it was too good to be true. It was. I took it to several places and was told that they don’t carry that type. The plate on the tub says Waltec, so I assume that is what the shower assembly is too. One specialty plumbing store told me it was old and they don’t carry those. Duh! Wouldn’t it be the old ones that break and need replacement. Anyway, my sister (I am a woman) suggested that I go to Rona, a store where she had found the staff very helpful. We live in Toronto, Canada. I took my valve there, and they also did not have a replacement. However, the young man was very helpful anyway. I pointed out the cracked o-ring and asked if that may be the problem. I had already tried to replace it, and it did not work. I thought the replacement may be too thin. He showed me that the cracked washer had moved a little further up the shaft of the pull, and was not in the correct position. He replaced the o-ring in the correct position, and my shower is now working. And he didn’t even charge me.
Comment by jason
Great step by step instructions. But I can’t seem to get the diverter unscrewed from the pipe in the wall! I went and got a socket set that fits the bolt perfectly, but it still wont budge, even with the help of a hammer. Any advice?
Comment by joey
glad to see im not the only one trying to figure this same problem out. thanks!!!
Comment by Tom
Jason,
Did you try the hair dryer trick of basically heating up the whole thing before trying to loosen it? The heat from a hair dryer (see the comments above) can make all that soap and gunk in there much softer… and that might be what’s keeping that diverter tight.
I really don’t like working on plumbing or old cars for just this reason: no matter how much you understand how it all works, you could still be stopped dead in your tracks by rust or gunk or some other physical problem that can drive you crazy :-)
Good luck! If you end up calling a plumber, let us know how HE (or she) managed to get it unstuck!
Comment by Mathieu Hubin
Good post. Mine just needed a couple O-rings and I replaced them. $1.50 and my shower is fixed! :-)Thanks for the post!
Comment by Grace Hogan
Your instructions and photos on replacing a shower diverter valve were assuring when I was making repairs to stop the water dripping from the bathtub spout. We have a 1950s bathroom with two-handle faucets and on-the-wall diverter. Changing the washers on the hot and cold water faucets was relatively simple; but, the diverter had me stymied. After removing the original diverter, I went to Home Depot where the seasoned pro informed me that the store didn’t carry such dated parts. The gentleman told me to go to Davidson’s, a plumbing supply house in Paramus, NJ. Although the replacement I purchased from Davidson’s looked identical to the original, it was too big. Back I went to the store, where the gentleman was perplexed that the part didn’t fit. He gave me another diverter and some silicone grease. Again, the part didn’t fit. Since I was visiting the Bronx, where there are lots of older homes, I decided to check out plumbing suppliers in the Bronx. The first store on my list was LAS Replacement Parts. Jason of LAS asked where I purchased the replacement, after he calibrated both the original and replacement diverter. The replacement was indeed a shade too big. Jason found the perfect size and double checked the fit by installing it into a demo system. When I told Jason I purchased the part from Davidson’s, he knew their location. Turns out LAS is Davidson’s supplier. Jason told me to tell Davidson’s to return the replacement to him. LAS Replacement Parts is a plumbing museum, with parts going back to the 1800s. If anyone is in search of antiquated plumbing parts, I suggest getting in touch with Jason. You can e-mail him with photos of the part and questions. His address is laspart@verizon.net; telephone number is (718)583-4700/1(800)223-8303. Thanks for empowering diyers.
Comment by fiona
i cannot get the metal sleeve tube off….arrgh! tried CLR, hair dryer, any suggestions? do i need a “rubber” wrench like those oil filter wrenches or something?
Comment by Rich
I found the replacement parts I needed, put them in and still had the same problem. It is a new faucet, only about a year old. Do I need to replace the entire body of the faucet?
Comment by Dad
Many thanks! Exactly what I needed. Pictures were a HUGE plus. Ciao!
Comment by Tom
Rich, what’s your problem, exactly? There could be something stuck in your pipes that’s causing the a problem. I replaced some shower valves recently and I accidentally left a little piece of dry-rotter washer behind… The new valve went in and the water worked, but it got tight and running water made a lot of noise until I took the whole thing apart again and clean out the hole.
Comment by K.J.
That “extra” nut that came with your new stem is called a “seat”. It helps your stem to properly seal off the water when the water is turned off. It is inserted first before the stem and you should probably replace that too.
Comment by Tom
KJ,
Ahh, thank you! So that little shower valve seat is just a little shelf for the valve to close against? I have not, up to this point, had any issues with the the valve without the valve seat. I wonder if my old valve seat still be in there…
Comment by Tony
I replaced the diverter valve and the seat but water still comes out at the tub when the diverter is pointed to the shower. So water comes out at both ends – any ideas????? Thanks
Comment by sammye setzer
I am a doityourselfer and was pleased to find this post. I followed the instructions and it worked great. I am, however still trying to get the cover piece off the middle knob and will try the hairdryer trick. Thank you for helping this lady fix the shower!
Comment by Tom
Tony… so, you have water coming out the tub and shower when you turn it to shower? Does it turn smoothly? My only guess is that either the diverter isn’t in there all the way or maybe there’s a depth adjustment. It almost sounds like the diverter isn’t completely blocking and directing the flow of water (which it should)… If the diverter valve isn’t completely in there’s a chance that water could run around it and into the tub faucet. Are there any odd noises coming from your pipes?
Sammye, Thanks! Glad I could help!
Comment by LadySaotome
Thanks so much for this detailed post & pictures. We are having the same problem as you with the addition that we cannot turn on the cold water at all or the shower becomes cold and only hot runs out the faucet. Makes for some scalding showers! Our landlord is out of the country for a few months and I hate to call a plumber for something that sounds so simple. Your post has given me the courage to try fixing this ourselves. We will see how it goes!
Comment by Tim
Great advice that saved me from what definitely would have been an expensive call to the plumber. I wasn’t lucky enough to find the diverter I needed at the local home depot, but a specialty plumbing store nearby found it in the blink of an eye. Thanks for the great write-up!
Comment by John Moehringer
Great write-up. I went to Lowes and found a kit which includes the diverter valve and both hot and cold water valves and new handles to really make it look good. $34.00 The kit also includes seats which can go bad if the washers are shot.
Comment by Wade Tenbrink
Help! The diverter stem will not come out of the hole! I loosen the stem completely and I can spin it freely with my fingers. It just will NOT come out, its like there is something still attached inside. I have been pulling and turning on it for like an hour and then ended up playing some Call of Duty to take out some frustrations. Any ideas?????
Comment by Tom
Wade,
You might want to try some of the same tricks for removing a stuck shower diverter that can be used for removing a stuck shower knob: http://www.homeimprovementsdepot.com/how-to-remove-a-stuck-shower-knob-or-faucet-handle/
Playing video games to burn off frustration is a great idea, but it won’t fix your shower. I know this from years of experience ;-)
Comment by Mark
I can’t get the flat-head screw out of the old Large Handle Divertor. Its really rusted. I sprayed WD-40 on it last night and thought that would help but i tried diff. screwdrivers and they are not working and prob. making it worse…cause the tread on the top is weakening. Its hard to put a screwdriver on it to unscrew it. Can I just get another screw to use the new one, as the new one did not come with one. You think $6+ they would add a screw for you with it. How do I go about getting another screw for the new one?
Comment by C.T. Blues
By posting this, you have done a great service sir. Keep it up.
Comment by ed
wow. it’s so cool to find this helpful article. i’m about to brave my diverter right now and i feel much more confident having read your story. thanks
Comment by jamie Terry
I did all of those steps mentioned about but mine still leaks from both ends. Could someone please tell me what I am doing wrong? And how I might be able to fix my problem? I would really appreciate it a lot.
Comment by Dominic Eisenzimmer
What about a tub/shower valve that comes out of the tub spout? I’ve tried looking it up but can’t find instructions. Any help?